Arctic Bay is a fusion of the harsh Canadian Arctic cold and an incredible obsession for the finest in luxury fashion. [154] Starting in the 1980s, opposition to seal hunting from the animal rights movement led to a major decline in the export market for seal pelts, and a corresponding drop in hunting as a primary occupation. Weasel skins sewn to the back of the parka provided speed and cleverness. Shades of red, black, brown, and yellow were made from minerals such as ochre and galena, obtained from crushed rocks and mixed with seal oil. [179] Inuit designers have criticized this practice as cultural appropriation. [e][130], Occasionally, scraps of frozen skin garments or even whole garments are found at archaeological sites. [156], Since that time, Inuit groups have made significant efforts to preserve traditional skills and reintroduce them to younger generations in a way that is practical for the modern world. Dehaired skin was sometimes used decoratively, as in the Labrador Inuit use of scalloped trim on boots. [39], Like caribou fur, polar bear fur grows in dual layers, and is prized for its heat-trapping and water-resistant properties. It was also suitable as bedding. [167] Although his style of grand cross-cultural study has fallen out of the mainstream, scholars have continued to make in-depth studies of the clothing of various Inuit and Arctic groups. In the early 20th century, overhunting led to a significant depletion of caribou herds in some areas. [155][152] The combination of these various factors resulted less demand for elders to create skin garments, which made it less likely that they would pass on their skills. The collection of the National Museum of Denmark contains over 2100 historic skin clothing items from various Arctic cultures, with examples collected and donated as early as 1830. [142] The Inuit selectively adopted foreign elements that simplified the construction process (such as metal needles) or aesthetically modified the appearance of garments (such as seed beads and dyed cloth), while rejecting elements that were detrimental (such as metal fasteners, which may freeze and snag, and synthetic fabrics, which absorb perspiration). Jan 25, 2021 - Explore Sheri Hupe's board "Inuit clothing", followed by 128 people on Pinterest. [152] Lacking the time and inclination to practice, many younger people lost interest in creating traditional clothing. No standardized sewing pattern was used, although older garments were sometimes used as models for new ones. Features contrasting sealskin hem, hood with fox fur trim, off-side zipper closure, zippered pockets, sleeve cuffs for added warmth, and accented with floral … Nick Newbery taught in several communities in Nunavut from 1976-2005. Alder bark provided a red-brown shade, and spruce produced red. [65] While butchering of caribou was handled by men, butchering of seals was mostly handled by women. The use of these animals depended on location and season. This also permitted a hunter to pull their arms out of the sleeves and into the coat against the body for warmth without taking the coat off. In the modern era, skin clothing is less common, but is still worn, often in combination with winter clothing of natural or synthetic fiber. The surface of the palm can be made of skin with the fur removed to increase the grip. The bottom hems of men's garments were cut straight. [107] It was important for people to show respect and gratitude to the animals they killed, to ensure that they would return for the next hunting season. [141][145] Following the 1783 establishment of a Russian trading post on Kodiak Island in what is now Alaska, use of sea otter and bear pelts for traditional garments was restricted, because the Russians preferred to sell the valuable pelts internationally. [187][188] The following year, the company released an expanded collection called Atigi 2.0, which involved eighteen seamstresses who produced a total of ninety parkas. Traditional Inuit culture divided labor by gender, so men and women wore garments specifically tailored to accommodate their distinct roles. 10. [136], As a result of socialization and trade, Inuit groups throughout their history incorporated clothing designs and styles between themselves, as well as from other Indigenous Arctic peoples such as the Chukchi, Koryak, and Yupik peoples of Siberia and the Russian Far East, the Sámi people of Scandinavia, and various non-Inuit North American Indigenous groups. [92][93] One traditional Inuit trim style is called qupuk trim or delta trim, which consists of small strips of fabric (usually bias tape) sewn together to make geometric patterns. This is the currently selected item. Once children were old enough to walk, they would wear a one-piece suit called an atajuq, similar in form to a modern blanket sleeper. Generous sharing of the meat from a hunt pleased the animal's spirit and showed gratitude for its generosity. [21][22] Qarliik were waist-high and held on loosely by a drawstring. [60][56], After contact with Western explorers, the Inuit began to make use of sheet tin, brass, non-meteoric iron, and even steel, obtained by trading or scrapping. For example, the animal's ears were often left on parka hoods, and contrasting patterns of light and dark fur were placed to emulate the animal's natural markings. [3][9] The hem of the outer coat would be left long in the back so the hunter could sit on the back flap and remain insulated from the snowy ground while watching an ice hole while seal hunting, or while waiting out an unexpected storm. [41] Intestine from seals and walruses was used to make waterproof jackets for rain. [14] The soft material shed from antlers, known as velvet, was used for tying back hair. Inuit Indigenous people. Traditionally, the Inuit seamstress does not use a standardized pattern: each piece of clothing is made to fit one particular individual, and an old garment can serve as a model for a new one. These are useful for fishermen and people foraging for sea urchins and sea cucumbers. [44] Caribou fur grows in two layers, which trap air, which is then warmed up by body heat. [75][76] The overcast stitch was used for the seams of most items. Constructing caribou skin clothing is a complex process that takes a long time to perfect. [72][73] The softening process was repeated until the women judged the skin was ready. Fully mastering them could take until a woman was into her mid-thirties. [123] In some cases, the gender identity of the shaman could be fluid or non-binary, which was reflected in their clothing through the use of both male and female design elements. One of the critical skills that enabled pre-contact Inuit to survive in a harsh environment was the women’s ability to make warm clothing. In many cases the Inuit were dismissive of so-called "white men's clothing"; the Inuvialuit referred to cloth pants as kam'-mik-hluk, meaning "makeshift pants". The designers retained the rights to their designs. He would like to acknowledge the assistance he received for this article from Bert Rose, northern educator and long-time resident of Nunavut. [141], It is important to note that these new materials, tools, and techniques generally did not alter the basic structure of the traditional skin clothing system, the basic composition of which has always remained consistent. [92], Inuit clothing makes heavy use of motifs, which are figures or patterns incorporated into the overall design of the garment. From what I can tell, all of the products at these links below are made from tanned sealskins. "[153] Kobayashi Issenman describes the continued use of traditional fur clothing as not simply a matter of practicality, but "a visual symbol of one's origin as a member of a dynamic and prestigious society whose roots extend into antiquity. Despite the wide distribution of the various Inuit peoples across regions of North America and Greenland, these traditional garments are broadly consistent in both design and material, due to the common need for protection against the extreme weather of the polar regions and the limited range of … [111], Amulets made of skin and animal parts were worn for protection and luck, and to invest the wearer with the animal's powers. Tribal affinity was indicated by ornamental features such as variations in the patterns made by different colors of fur, the cut of the garment, and the length of fur. [124], Individual skin garments are rarely found intact, as animal hide is susceptible to decay. [78], Once created, Inuit skin clothing must be properly maintained, or it will become brittle, lose hair, or even rot. The skins are prepped and prepared for us in an air dried condition. The oldest method of developing a pattern, and one that is still used, is by measuring with hand and eye. [61] European contact also brought scissors to the Inuit, but they were not widely adopted, as they do not cut furry hides as cleanly as sharp knives. Arctic clothing. [32], Most upper garments included a built-in hood, but some groups like the Kalaallit of Greenland wore separate hats instead, in a similar fashion to the Yupik peoples of Siberia. [43], Regardless of the source animal, the Inuit traditionally used as much of the carcass as possible. When the bear's spirit departed, it took the spirits of the tools with it and used them in the afterlife. Older children wore outfits with separate parkas and trousers like adults. Sometimes this was not by choice, as in the cases of Labrador, Canada, and Kaktovik, Alaska, where Christian missionaries in the 18th century insisted that Inuit women wear foreign garments such as long skirts or dresses to religious services because Inuit garments were seen as inappropriate. [41] Each piece of the hide had qualities that made it suitable for various uses: for example, the tough leg skins were used for items that required durability. Inuit — Inuktitut for “the people” — are Indigenous people, the majority of whom inhabit the northern regions of Canada. His parka —a hooded jacket invented by Eskimos—was made of caribou skin and worn with the fur inside. [41], The hide of the barren-ground caribou, an Arctic subspecies of caribou, was the most important source of material for clothing of all kinds, as it was readily available, versatile, and, when left with the fur intact, very warm. [183] After a successful letter-writing campaign organized by Pauktuuit, DKNY cancelled the proposed collection. The advent of indoor heating makes insulated indoor clothing less vital. [99] Pendants were made from all kinds of materials. [161] Modern Inuit clothing has been studied as an example of sustainable fashion and vernacular design. Warmth and moisture are the biggest risks to clothing, as they promote the growth of decay-inducing bacteria. [3] Numerous regional variations of the amauti exist, but for the most part, the hem of the amauti is left longer and cut into rounded apron-like flaps, which are called kiniq in the front and akuq in the back. [2] These people brought trade goods such as metal tools, beads, and fabric which began to be integrated into traditional clothing. Clothing made from this material is extraordinarily warm, lightweight, water repellent and durable. Tight, high-quality seams was essential to prevent cold air and moisture from entering the garment. Purchasing manufactured clothing saves time and energy, and it can be easier to maintain than traditional skin clothing. Needles were made from bird or fish bones or slices of ivory. The most popular color? Year-round, it was used to make clothing for water-based activities like kayaking and fishing, as well as for boots and mittens. [26][27] The traditional first layer was a set of stockings called alirsiik, which had the fur facing inwards. Once we receive the hides we grade and select the skins that will be used for construction of blankets and carpets and send off to the tanneries. Rigid parts like bones, beaks, teeth, claws, and antlers were carved into tools or decorative items. Harbour seals have a wide distribution but lower population, so they are less commonly used. Pauktuutit described the company's actions as exploitative, stating "the fashion house took advantage of some of the less-educated people who did not know their rights. The Arctic. [110] The Copper Inuit used a design mimicking a wolf's tail on the back of their parkas, referencing the natural predator of the caribou. They have been carbon-dated to c. 1475, and analysis indicates that the garments were prepared and sewn in the same manner as modern skin clothing from the Kalaallit people of the region. A few examples will indicate some of the complexities: 'Akuitoq: man's parka with a slit down the front, worn traditionally in the Keewatin and Baffin Island areas'; 'Atigainaq: teenage girl's parka from the Keewatin region'; 'Hurohirkhiut: boy's parka with slit down the front'; 'Qolitsaq: man's parka from Baffin Island' (Strickler and Alookee 1988, 175). The traditional skin clothing of the Inuit is a complex system of cold-weather garments historically made from animal hide and fur, worn by the Inuit, a group of culturally related indigenous peoples inhabiting the Arctic areas of North America and Greenland. The tuck or gathering stitch was used to join pieces of uneven size. Caribou were hunted in the autumn from approximately August to October, and sea mammals like seals were hunted from December to May. In the 1980s, Inuit clothing expert Bernadette Driscoll Engelstad travelled to museums in Europe and Canada with Inuit seamstresses to study historical garments. [158] Outside of the formal education system, cultural literacy programs such as Miqqut, Somebody's Daughter, Reclaiming our Sinew, and Traditional Skills Workshop, spearheaded by organizations like Pauktuutit (Inuit Women of Canada) and Ilitaqsiniq (Nunavut Literacy Council), have been successful in reintroducing modern Inuit to traditional clothing-making skills. [98][67] Plant-based dyes were available in some areas as well. [159][160] Modern-day techniques, such as the use of wringer washing machines to soften hides and the application of Mr. Clean all-purpose cleaner to produce soft white leather, ease the time and effort needed for production, making the work more attractive. "[104] Kamiit are regarded as an important symbol of Inuit identity and a uniquely female art. [108] The goddess Sedna, mistress of the ocean and the animals within, disliked caribou, so it was taboo to sew sealskin clothing at the same time as caribou clothing. Both women and men carried a sewing kit in a bag hung around their necks for emergency repairs when travelling. The sewing period following hunting could last for up to four weeks. Most mitts are caribou skin, but sealskin is used for work in wet conditions, while bear is preferred for icing sled runners as it does not shed when damp. To provide grip on icy ground, boot soles could be pleated, or sewn with strips of dehaired seal skin. [135] Archaeological digs in Utqiagvik, Alaska from 1981 to 1983 uncovered the earliest known samples of clothing of the Kakligmiut people, carbon-dated to c. 1510. [8] These garments had no front opening, and were donned by pulling them over the head. Inuktitut syllabics are standardized by the Inuit Cultural Institute to reflect the Romanized spelling of Inuktitut words. [133][134][132], In 1972, a group of eight well-preserved and fully dressed mummies were found at Qilakitsoq, an archaeological site on Nuussuaq Peninsula, Greenland. Production of clothing was an intensive communal process undertaken by entire families gathered together. Traditional Inuit clothing was made of _____. The Inuit wore clothes made from animal skins, fur, and feathers to keep themselves warm in the freezing conditions of the Arctic. The most basic traditional outfit consisted of a coat (parka), pants, mittens, inner footwear, and outer boots made of animal hide and fur. [164] Even garments made from woven or synthetic fabric today adhere to ancient forms and styles in a way that makes them simultaneously traditional and contemporary. [2][137] There is evidence indicating that prehistoric and historic Inuit gathered in large trade fairs to exchange materials and finished goods; the trade network that supported these fairs extended across some 3,000 km (1,900 mi) of Arctic territory. [168], Many museums have extensive collections of historical Inuit garments. Tendons and other membranes were used to make tough, durable fibers, called sinew thread or ivalu, for sewing clothing together. The most basic version of the traditional outfit consisted of a coat (parka), pants, mittens, inner footwear, and outer boots, all made of animal hide and fur. [62] Traditionally, Inuit seamstresses used thread made from sinew, called ivalu. Hunting was seen as a sacred act. When low temperatures hit, being outside without proper clothing can endanger your life. The Inuit languages are part of the Inuit-Yupik-Unangan family. [50][46] In modern times, wool made from musk-ox down is sold commercially. [184] Bernadette Driscoll Engelstad has described the parka as "the most unique garment known to have been created in the Canadian Arctic. In 2019, Canadian winterwear brand Canada Goose launched Project Atigi, commissioning fourteen Canadian Inuit seamstresses to each design a unique parka or amauti from materials provided by Canada Goose. [119] In 2001, the British Museum in London presented Annuraaq, an exhibition of Inuit clothing. [167] Later scholarship disputed his migration theory, but his studies of Inuit clothing, with their elaborate images drawn by his wife Emilie Demant Hatt, have been described as "groundbreaking in their meticulousness and scope". It was also thought to impart the wearer with the animal's characteristics, like endurance, speed, and protection from cold. [105], The entire process of creating and wearing traditional clothing was intimately connected with Inuit spiritual beliefs. Hunters might wear a pair of tiny model boots while out hunting to ensure that their own boots would last. Arctic clothing. Some beadwork was applied to panels of skin, which could be removed from an old garment and sewn onto a new one; such panels were sometimes passed down through families. The skins of small animals like marmots and Arctic ground squirrels are used for upper garments and decorations. The photos in this article are from Nick’s Arctic photo collection that can be found at www.newberyphotoarchives.ca and should be viewed from a historical perspective. [61][141][142][143][144], European and American clothing never fully replaced the traditional clothing complex of the Inuit, but it did gain a certain degree of traction in some areas. The long guard hairs of dogs, wolves, and wolverines were preferred as trim for hoods and mittens. [72], Inuit clothing expert Betty Kobayashi Issenman identified five key aspects common to all Inuit skin clothing, made necessary by the challenges particular to the polar environment. [170] Noted anthropological expeditions such as the Gjøa Expedition (1903–1906) and the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921–1924) brought back and donated to the museum a combined total of over 800 North American Inuit garments. Well you're in luck, because here they come. In Alaska, fish skins were sometimes used for clothing and bags, but this is not well-documented in Canada. [b] These could be covered with the tuqtuqutiq, a kind of short, thick-soled overshoe that provided additional insulation to the feet. Inuit clothing, made by women, was a cornerstone and crucial technology to survival in the arctic. [186], Some brands have made efforts to work with Inuit designers directly. The skin itself is thin and supple, making it light and flexible. Production of warm, durable clothing was an essential survival skill for the Inuit, which was traditionally passed down from adult women to girls.